Sartoria Lab

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How to do Smart/Casual

"Smart / Casual" is by far the most common area that I get asked to help my clients with. Leaving the uniformity of a suit, and taking it down a notch or two in formality without slipping into weekend wear, leaves a wide choice that a lot of men wish was narrowed down somewhat. 

So here, I've tried to simplify the process for you with some guidelines below and a table at the end, listing the formality of each item. Of course, it's such a vast arena with small details on a garment that can make it smarter or more casual, so it's impossible to list eveything, but I hope this goes some way to help with the process of getting dressed for the sometimes dreaded Dress Down Fridays!

And if you'd like some help putting together a capsule wardrobe of smart/casual items, then of course contact me, and I'll be pleased to assist.

Select 3 of the following to change from Business to Smart Casual:

Suit

Replace a tailored suit with one of the following:

  • Separates of wool/cotton blazer (could be textured or patterned) and wool/cotton tailored trousers
  • Change structured tailoring to softer, more unstructured fabrics. Could have patch pockets rather than traditional flap pockets.
  • Change the fabric of your suit to non wool eg. Moleskin, linen, needlecord
  • Change a dark coloured suit to a lighter colour eg. Light grey

Men's Joseph jacket on Sartoria Lab blog post on lHow to do Smart Casual Men's Joseph trousers on Sartoria Lab blog post on How to do Smart Casual

Soft cotton stretch "Venice" jacket - Joseph        Soft cotton stretch "Dash" trousers - Joseph

Shirt

Replace a formal business shirt with:

  • A soft collar shirt - could be a button down or grandad style collar
  • A brighter or deeper coloured shirt
  • Bolder or brighter stripes or checks on the shirt
  • A shirt with a small geometric or spot pattern
  • T-shirt, polo shirt or fine knit sweater
  • A chambray shirt

 The Kooples shirt on Sartoria Lab blog post on How to do Smart Casual 

Checked button down shirt - The Kooples

Trousers 

Replace wool suit trousers with:

  •  Cotton, linen mix, moleskin, needlecord, more textured fabric such as herringbone

Hardy Amies trousers on Sartoria Lab blog post on How to do Smart Casual 

Cotton trousers - Hardy Amies at Mr Porter

Knitwear

 

  • Replace jacket / shirt with a fine knit V or crew neck sweater, cardigan or sleeveless sweater

 Nicole Farhi sweater - Sartoria Lab blog post on How to do Smart Casual

"Maurice" fine knit sweater - Nicole Farhi

Tie

  • Remove altogether or replace a silk tie with a wool, knitted or cotton tie

Nick Bronson tie - Sartoria Lab blog post on How to do Smart Casual

Mid grey spotted silk knitted tie - Nick Bronson at Liberty

Shoes

  • Replace leather soled shoes with rubber soles or chunky tread soles
  • Replace laced shoes with slip-on / buckle / thick or coloured laced shoes

Paul Smith shoes - Sartoria Lab blog post on How to do Smart Casual

Black leather "Rade" loafers - Paul Smith shoes

And to make it even simpler, here's a handy table detailing the formality of each item of clothing:

Suits

Formal

Smart

 

Smart/casual

Casual/smart

Casual

 

Dark suit

 

 

 

Medium coloured suit

 

 

 

Light coloured suit

 

 

 

Non wool suit eg. Linen

 

 

 

Tailored blazer

 

 

Unstructured blazer

 

 

 

Trousers

 

 

 

 

 

Dark tailored trousers

 

 

Light tailored trousers/flannels

 

 

 

Chinos/needlecord/moleskin

 

 

 

Jeans/jumbo cord

 

 

 

 

Shirts

 

 

 

 

 

White shirt

 

 

Blue shirt

 

 

Pastel shirt

 

 

Mid to darker shirt

 

 

Plain

Fine stripe or check

 

 

 

Bold stripe or check

 

 

 

Cutaway collar

 

 

 

Standard collar

Button down collar

 

 

Collarless

 

 

 

Ties

 

 

 

 

 

Conservative tie

 

 

 

Brighter/bolder tie

 

 

 

No tie

 

 

Shoes

 

 

 

 

 

Leather soled lace ups

 

 

Leather soled loafers/monkstraps

 

 

 

Rubber soled shoes

 

 

 

Trainers/sandals

 

 

 

 

Socks

 

 

 

 

 

Fine dark plain socks

 

Lighter/patterned socks

 

 

No socks

 

 

 

 

Belts

 

 

 

 

 

Fine dark leather belt

 

 

Canvas/woven/chunkier belt

 

 

 

No belt

 

 

 

Knits

 

 

 

 

 

Fine plain wool crew, v-neck, polo shirt, cardigan

 

 

 

Chunkier / patterned knit

 

 

 

T-shirts

 

 

 

 

 

Plain white t-shirt

 

 

 

Coloured / patterned

 

 

 

 

 

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